LA CAIGADA - MISTY SPRING WALK IN VENICE

It looks like it’s raining any minute in Venice .. and the city is clad in thick mist called caígo. Just before a soft drizzle sets in, the gardens turn completely quiet, and the scent of the spring blossoms is overwhelming. That’s why a misty spring day has its advantages: It’s an opportunity to take in the scent of the city, so special in May. But first, we’ll walk down Riva degli Schiavoni just before the rain, visiting a secret garden holding a little surprise, and then return to eat lunch in a special restaurant offering excellent sea food in Late Antiquity style.

This secret garden is the cure for everyone who for some reason didn’t take pictures of wisteria blossoms: It’s part of the Gabrielli palazzo complex built in the 14th century, now turned into Hotel Gabrielli Sandwirth, a four-star hotel bordering on a canal at the far end of Riva degli Schiavoni. This family-run hotel is currently being restored, but I was told will reopen in 2022.

Located just across from the island of San Giorgio Maggiore, the Gabrielli building looks more like a fairy tale palace than a hotel. Founded in 1856, it’s run by the same family, today in their sixth generation. They still speak German and even have an Austrian-style Weinstube (wine bar) down the corridor leading into the garden.

And they do have a couple of treasure plants, from giant red water lilies growing lush in red marble basins to an ancient white wisteria. Or rather, instead of calling this sprawling green area just one garden, you could rather view it as several garden rooms: Small courtyards with breakfast zones, a corner covered by vines forming a thick roof by early summer, and a lawn bordering upon Rio Ca’ di Dio, from which the garden is separated by a wooden and wrought-iron pergola.

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